Arrowood’s Saralee’s always is balanced and dry, but quality varies by vintage. The ’03 is a very good wine, rich in licorice-accented cassis and pepper flavors, with a generous coating of smoky oak. It’s not a big wine, or ageable, but it does have grace and elegance now and for a year or two.——S.H.(12/1/2007)—— 87