Scents of moss suggest more development than one would expect, but behind that come intimations of bright citrus. Lemony-fresh and cheek-tugging, this wine’s palate presence is of a take-no-prisoners sort. Pithy, piquant and black-tea-smoky, the penetrating finish is a bit austere, but its array of stony, saline, and alkaline notes is fascinating and its lemony brightness ultra-refreshing.