The 2008 Merlot Graf de la Tour comes across as rather cool and tightly wound. With time in the glass the fruit begins to open up, revealing hints of blackberry jam, espresso, grilled herbs and plums. Some of the wine’s more reticent qualities are balanced by the giving, sweet aromatics. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Villa Russiz appears to be in transition at the moment, after the departure of longtime winemaker Gianni Menotti over the summer. Hopefully things will settle down. The estate is run by a non-profit organization, and my feeling has long been that the potential of these vineyards in the heart of the Collio has yet to fully be realized. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900