The 2007 Alfa Spiga comes from Berlangas de Roas and La Horra with a winery grape bunch selection and a 30-day maceration. It is raised in new oak (80% French) for 20 months and is unfiltered. The oak is neatly folded into the fruit: blackberry, boysenberry, a touch of vanilla and blueberry. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannins. There are pure notes of raspberry preserve, wild strawberry and dried herbs that lead to a strict, off-dry finish that has a pleasing touch of austerity that complements the vibrant red fruit. Very fine and classy. Drink now-2017. The boy gets around. Of course, I am talking about the peripatetic Jose-Manuel Ortega, who presides over three namesake wineries in Chile, Argentina and Spain. Although not quite as “cosmic” as his state-of-the-art facility in the Uco Valley, his Ribera del Duero winery is presently undergoing much investment that should see a continued melioration in the quality of the wines, not that quality appears to be compromised at the moment. There are three ranges here: the entry-level Urban, Spiga and Alfa Spiga. After touring the vineyard, Jose invited me to taste recent and mature releases. I asked Jose to explain his approach to oak that here seems more integrated than others that I encountered. “My personal answer to this question: balance. I always put the example of a three-legged chair. The three legs are: acidity, fruit and oak. If any of the three are not in balance, the wine is not optimal. If a wine has too much or too little of any of the three, it will not be in balance. We have begun to experiment with 500-liter oak barrels. But the reality is that our aim is to produce long-aging wines and oak is important for wines to last once the primary aromas, which are the most volatile, start to disappear. But the wines have to possess enough intensity to withstand new oak. Our experience is that O. Fournier wines are not oaky and they hold very well with time.” As usual, I found quality to be the bedrock of his wines and at just $ 15, Jose demonstrated that Ribera del Duero does not have to be expensive. N.B. The importer changed just prior to the completion of this report. Importer: Country Vintners; www.thecountryvintner.com

Espresso and dark chocolate flavors have a dark sweetness in this firm, polished red, framing cherry and cranberry fruit, giving way to a finish of toast and licorice notes. Drink now through 2014. 2,000 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Ribera del Duero Select to Add

Vivid blackberry, lifted violet, spice and a tier of tropical fruit on the nose. Lovely, sweet, ripe flavour with just the right amount of oak, and supple, sandy tannins.