The lightest cuvee of the 1990 red wine offerings, the 1990 Crozes-Hermitage-Les Jalets, exhibits a huge nose of black fruits, herbs, smoke, and damp woodsy aromas. In the mouth, it is dense, rich, and opulent, with gobs of fruit, wonderful extraction, and a long, velvety finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Having gone through Jaboulet's 1990 red wine offerings five times (four for the Hermitage-La Chapelle), I must say that this is the firm's best overall year since 1961. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 355-0700