Well-positioned almond, honey and pear aromas lead into a textured palate enlivened by melon, pear and apple. It’s a bit like Chardonnay in terms of size and mouthfeel, but with pulsing acidity it’s not as blowsy. Finishes rich and round, a winner with a full, meaty character. ——M.S.(8/1/2004)—— 87