Originating in genetically and phenotypically unique old vines propagated for Loewen as part of a research program, the 2006 Riesling Varidor (like the “Quant” that follows and other of his wines) has residual sugar at or slightly over the legal limit for trocken but tastes dry. Yellow plum and gooseberry in the nose do not prepare one for the sense of ripeness and the creamy richness exhibited on the palate. Brown spices and pungent hints of citrus zest and smokiness that reflect botrytis make for an invigorating but not at all rough overall impression and a penetrating, memorably mineral finish. The balance of this wine is uncanny, reflecting (as I and Loewen think) the advantages of this old Riesling selection in achieving expressive ripeness at relatively low must weight. It’s too early in the career of this bottling to judge its longevity by track record, but I would guess this will be worth following for a decade, during which it will reveal fascinating food compatibilities. The Mosel’s greatest champion of once-great but recently-neglected sites and one of German viticulture’s most tireless outside-the-box thinkers in the search for quality, Karl-Josef Loewen took extra efforts in 2006 including adding supplemental pickers who helped him harvest in only ten days. He did not begin until October 8, believing that “before then, the ripeness just wasn’t there.” Loewen is notoriously fearless when it comes to harvesting botrytis, but he tended toward more whole-cluster pressing than usual to help guard against impure elements of rot. In an exciting development, beginning this year, Loewen is taking the lead with Carl Schmitt-Wagner in farming the latter’s ancient Riesling in Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300