Tasted exactly two years after the vintage, Failla’s estate Pinot was so dry, tough and tight in acids and tannins as to be nearly undrinkable, although serious decanting will help it. But it’s an ager, to judge from the dense core of feral wild berries, cola, grilled meat bone and Asian spice flavors. Most of the 1,200 bottles will probably be opened too early, but if you can, hold onto it until after 2012.——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 93