Not very attractive now, a heavy, full-bodied wine that hasn’t come together. Could almost be Grenache. Yet it’s enormously complex, and the flavors veer toward ripe blackberries, cherries, blueberries, cranberries, orange peel, anise, cola and sweet, smoky new oak. The toughness should benefit from time in the bottle. Give it a good 4–6 years.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 91