The Busch 2007 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese is scented with high-toned mint, lemon oil, peach preserves, distilled yellow plum, white raisin, and nippy horseradish. Amazingly creamy, rich, and wafting – almost weightless – on the palate, this shares with many of the best wines in this collection at all levels of sweetness an alluring nut paste element. It also boasts Eszencia-like apricot paste character and near-gelatinous viscosity, penetrating esterous perfume and bracing, perfectly-integrated lemony citricity and salinity, and phenomenal persistence as well as clarity and differentiation for a wine this extreme in ripeness and residual sugar. You’ll have to have at least two decade’s patience with this. Remarkably, a gold capsule T.B.A. will also have been bottled that was still fermenting as of last autumn.Clemens Busch – among the Mosel’s few organic vintners, and the undisputed champion of the Lower Mosel’s steep Pundericher Marienburg – is also rapidly demonstrating that he is simply one of the collective Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer’s exceptional talents, not to mention stylistically free spirits. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. Nature thrust on him in 2006 an unprecedented 9 Auslesen (many distinguished only by number), 3 Beerenauslesen, and single T.B.A. (most of which were reviewed in issue 179). In 2007, an at least slightly more normal – not to mention more marketable – balance of dry-tasting (though not always legally trocken) wines was restored, but success, Busch insists, was possible only by dint of great patience and then, when the time was ripe for picking, in great haste. A considerable number of overtly nobly sweet wine was picked in the process, as there was no lack of botrytis in this fungicide-free zone.Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312