Approaching full maturity but still youthful, as if it is in late adolescence, this wine, from the excellent Fisher family based on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountains, comes from their 12-acre Lamb Vineyard, planted in northeastern Napa. The wine exhibits some scorched earth, white chocolate, underbrush and black currants as well as hints of sweet cherry and loamy soil (or is it just a crushed rock minerality?). Beautiful texture, easygoing purity and a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel give this wine both power and elegance. Drink it over the next decade. Tel. (707) 539-7511; Fax (707) 539-3601