The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino does not have quite as much meat as the remarkable 1997, but it is an unquestionable success. A firm and brilliant garnet, its complex nose of plums, wild cherries, saddle leather, and minerals is of important depth and expansion. The solid, balanced flavors are vigorous and layered, sensual in texture, resonant and long on the sweet, tarry, mineral finish. Drink: 2005-2015. Those looking for the finest in this appellation might want to consider reserving the 1999 Valdicava Brunello – the best yet – in advance. Vincenzo Abruzzesi is Montalcino’s number one over-achiever with winner after winner since 1988. The secret – a willingness, indeed eagerness, to spend whatever it takes for quality in addition to utilizing several of Italy’s outstanding consultants, winemaker Attilio Pagli and agronomist Andrea Paoletti (the former Antinori vineyard manager). Pagli is unfortunately little known to the larger public, but no oenologist in Italy has made so many excellent wines since the mid-1980’s. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907