Pitch black, like midnight on a country road. Talk about saturated: the nose yields tar, char and more, and in the mouth it has that midlevel intensity that many of the 2000s don’t have. Earthy at one moment, polished the next. It finishes with a sweet blast of molasses, black cherry and coffee. A head-turner, one that gets better with every sip. Imported by Vinifera Imports. ——M.S.(7/1/2005)—— 93