Rich, ripe and fragrant, with the essence of spice, cedar, black cherry, black raspberry, cola, strawberries, herbs, licorice, tar and tobacco—all wrapped up in a neatly bound, yet generous package that delivers mounds of pleasure. Muscular with firm acidity, it’s got a punch that will keep it long-lived for the cellar.——J.M.(4/1/2004)—— 92