Talk about a nose that reflects the ocean: Initial aromas of clam shells and sea foam are almost offputting, but once you taste the wine there’s a good mix of papaya, green banana and dried stone fruits. On the finish, cinnamon-spiced applesauce flavors mingle with hints of white pepper. Not bad, but a little shaky on the nose. ——M.S.(8/1/2004)—— 85