Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Eiswein, Mosel, Germany

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Although it would, he says, have been possible on many subsequent days to have harvested a wine of this name, Loewen’s 2009 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Eiswein was picked already on December 19. Sharp scents of musky radish and citrus peel introduce a palate of decidedly sweet-sour – and of Beerenauslese-Eiswein countenance. Spiced apple cider, caramel, and peach preserves are laced with sharp citrus, and the musky aromatic elements threaten to transform themselves into advanced decadence and rank animality. This is at once admirably well-concentrated and delicate, but it represents Loewen’s determination to harvest in this genre – and, in effect, his broad vision of that genre – even when the late-hanging fruit is botrytized and arguably fatigued, and whose results won’t represent every Riesling lover’s cup of Eiswein. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 2-3 years, and its exotic decadence might well prove synergistic in certain sybaritic contexts. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.) Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300