The 2005 Leiwener Klostergarten Riesling Eiswein was harvested December 16 at a temperature Loewen would ordinarily have deemed insufficient, but this year he said he was not taking further chances. “I told myself, it’s either now or never. The wild boar were at the gate. Botrytis was at the gate. Let’s pick!” Even so, he admitted to harboring doubts that the juice from grapes so far gone on botrytis would taste clean, but such was the case. High-toned peppermint, candied lemon, and radish aromas all authenticate this as Eiswein. In the mouth, a lovely, juicy impression of spiced quince jelly, fresh quince, and lemon candy are tinged with a faintly musky note of botrytis. The finish is clear and pure on top, with quince and pear underlain by yeasty, musky, carnal notes of noble rot. The overall effect is remarkably deft, elegant, and airy despite measurably huge extract, and with more than enough vivacity despite a level of acidity exceedingly low by Eiswein standards. I can imagine enjoying drinking this on quite a few occasions over the next four of five years. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Alte Reben ($ unknown; 84+?), 2005 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling “Christopher’s Wine” ($ unknown; 85+?), 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese (unavailable; 86). Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300