Tasted blind in Hong Kong, the Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru les Malconsorts 2004 does everything to convince me that I had this brilliant wine correct when I tasted it from barrel. Deep in colour, there is an initial burst of red berry fruit intermingling with shaved black truffle and cigar box, a little autumnal perhaps, but very well defined. The palate has real guts and substance, the new oak melded into the fabric of the wine, silky smooth in texture with a vitamin-like purity toward the energetic finish. What a great les Malconsorts from Cathaird. You can see it lasting two decades without too much problem.