The opaque ruby/purple-hued, enormously concentrated 2010 Gigondas Le Claux (from vines planted in limestone soils; 150 cases produced) displays subtle notes of earth, black fruits and flowers in addition to a huge, opulent, full-bodied mouthfeel, good acidity and some structure and tannin in the finish. It will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and last for 15-20 years. Louis Barruol has been at the top of his game since the late 1990s, and over the last few vintages, he has been making some of the finest wines in the southern Rhone as well as France. The glories here are Barruol’s single vineyard/special cuvees of Gigondas, but consumers should not overlook the terrific value offered by his Cotes du Rhones. The wines are sold under two monikers, Chateau Saint-Cosme and simply Saint-Cosme (his negociant line-up). Barroul produces a small quantity of Chateauneuf du Pape that is usually about 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. Importer: Country Vintners, Ashland, VA; tel. (804) 752-3670