Among the luxury cuvees is the Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers. This is clearly the most spectacular wine made in the appellation, even richer and denser than Alain Graillot's La Giraude and Paul Jaboulet's Thalabert. As I reported last year, the 1995 Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonnieres is the finest Crozes-Hermitage I have ever tasted. Now in bottle, it offers an opaque purple color, and a spectacular nose of black fruits, licorice, minerals, and smoke. Dense, with terrific fruit purity, and layers of concentration, this wine is loaded with extract and glycerin. The finish lasts for 30+ seconds. Amazing! Anticipated maturity: 2000-2015.