Renard has fashioned a 2002 Grenache Unti Vineyards (15.3% alcohol) that will undoubtedly be controversial because of its borderline fecal note that is pleasant in a cow pasture sort of way. Dark ruby-colored, with herbs de Provence, ground pepper, and kirsch liqueur aromas, it possesses a gorgeous texture, medium body, and loads of fruit. If the nose did not resemble that famous Burgundy cheese, Epoisse, this would clearly merit an outstanding rating, but I suspect some readers will find it too in-your-face as well as somewhat dirty, even though there are plenty of positive attributes. It’s worth trying, but some tasters may have to hold their noses.Tel. 707-265-9061