The purple-colored 2007 Syrah was aged in seasoned French oak. It offers up an alluring nose of smoke, meat, incense, and blueberry. Ripe and sweetly-fruited, it has plenty of flesh, immediate appeal, and good length but could use a bit more complexity. Perhaps another 1-2 years of bottle age will speak to that. Reininger Winery opened its doors in 1997. The wines are made by Chuck Reininger with lots of family help with winery operations. The Reininger label is reserved for wines produced with Walla Walla grown grapes while the Helix label, reviewed separately, is used for Columbia Valley fruit.www.reiningerwinery.com

Pure Syrah from Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and Ash Hollow vineyard fruit, this shows the maturing of Walla Walla vines, which more and more reveal the earthy, herbal, garrigue qualities of the grape. Coopered in neutral oak, it showcases the typicity and regionality of the grape. Funk, earth, seaweed, green tobacco, and a hint of pepper dominate. You might wish for more fruit, but for those who love the funk this is a fine bottle.——P.G.(11/1/2010)—— 89