The 2005 Toscana Rosso reveals plenty of intensity in its dark red fruit, smoke and spices. Made in a forward, soft, style, this French oak-aged blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah is best enjoyed while the fruit is vibrant. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Importer: Grapes On The Go, Inc., Forest Hills, NY; tel. (917) 826-2667; Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, Roslyn Heights, NY; tel. (516) 299-4344

Here is a sweetly perfumed wine with tones of Christmas spice and church incense backed by old leather and pipe tobacco. There’s a soapy, lavender like note that is cloying at first but that diminishes with time. In the mouth, the wine is linear and full of ripe berry flavors. ——M.L.(3/1/2010)—— 87