The Matassa 2007 Cuvee Romanissa - overwhelmingly Grenache, with small amounts of Carignan, Mourvedre, and some Cabernet Sauvignon that came along with the purchase of a recent property - is, like the other reds from this estate, matured largely in older demi-muids. Bright red currant and strawberry, brine and alkaline mineral notes, and bitter-sweet floral notes combine delightfully, leading to a decidedly white wine-like palate impression. -Everything you were taught about Grenache was wrong!- says Lubbe with a laugh. This is long, salty, refreshing, and ripe in red fruit flavors for all of its almost disconcerting brightness. I can imagine holding this for several years - the 2003 still gives a good account of itself. South African-born and -trained Tom Lubbe arrived to do a stint at Gerard Gauby and fell in love with Roussillon - and with his wife (and Gauby's daughter) Nathalie. In 2001, the couple established their decidedly low-tech domaine. (Sam Harrop - a New Zealand-trained oenological consultant and M.W. well-known for his work on the Loire - is the third, largely hands-off partner in this venture.) Lubbe's biodynamic methods and experimental spirit are in the Gauby mode, but the vinous results are utterly unique, with more than two-thirds of production consisting of distinctively delicious whites. Virtually all of Lubbe's wines stay below 13% alcohol. They also keep quite low pHs, thanks, Lubbe avers, to his care and rejuvenation of the soil. He says he took it as a great compliment when he was falsely accused of having acidified his 2003s! (Incidentally, Lubbe has begun a joint project with Domaine de Majas in cool, high-elevation Caudies de Fenouilledes under the label -Three Trees.- The three wines - designed to sell at a very modest price - looked promising early-on though very bright and, I thought, in need of settling down. Hopefully they will arrive in the U.S. market in time to be reviewed in our August -values- issue.)Importer: Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (917) 613 1793.