Like many of the J.J. Prum wines, this one starts off funky smelling, with hints of sweaty socks. But those aromas aren’t enough to conceal the underlying notes of apple, citrus and vanilla; decant the wine if you intend to drink it during the next five years or so. It’s plump and custardy in texture, with a long, pineappley finish. ——J.C.(10/1/2009)—— 90