Laughing Jack is a nickname for the Kookaburra, so this is a critter wine of a sort. But the resemblance ends there; this is a very good wine, layered with the complex scents and flavors of cracked green and black peppercorns, chocolate, black olive, roasted coffee beans and caramelized plums. Firm on the finish, so give it another six months or so to loosen up. ——J.C.(2/1/2007)—— 88