Apparently a staple in the Duboeuf stable (although I had never before tasted it, and the last rendition to have been reviewed in these pages was the 2003), the 2009 Beaujolais-Villages Chateau des Vierres is scented with ripe black raspberry and smoky black tea; offers generous, ripe fruit juiciness with hints of wet stone and berry seed offering counterpoint; and finishes with infectious juiciness. The vast and on the whole stylistically consistent range of Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais bottlings – a majority issuing from individual domaines – represents a reliable source of value, and this has seldom been more true (nor has the range – most, but not all of which, I tasted – been more vast) than from 2009, which it is clear Duboeuf considers as fine a vintage as he has witnessed – although he notes, “It was very difficult this year to choose the date of bottling,” and many wines were still in tank awaiting that decision when I tasted in April. I continue to find as a general rule that Duboeuf’s wines are best drunk within two years of bottling, so in my notes I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be exceptions to that rule of thumb. (Wines identified solely by their appellation are so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees, labeled with his company’s signature flower labels. There are Regnie and Chenas selection bottlings that I did not taste, the latter being the sole bottling of its appellation this vintage, due to the ravages of hail.)Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Ripe and also tannic, this is structured wine, its berry fruits pushing through a dry plum skin texture. It is solid and chunky while remaining fresh and fruity. ——R.V.(12/31/2010)—— 86