The Vissoux 2007 Moulin-a-Vent Les Trois Roches was assembled in tank when I tasted it. Aromas of cedar and cinnamon accent its blackberry fruit, which comes onto the palate with a tart leading edge, making for a saliva-inducing brightness even as the wine displays profound depth of fruit, meat and mineral matter, palpable extract, and sheer grip. Fine-grained tannins reinforce the impression of a wine that will relish a half dozen years in the cellar.Pierre Chermette has successfully expanded from his base in southern Beaujolais without quality in any way suffering; on the contrary his mastery of the northern Beaujolais crus is now also a fait accompli. With the new generation coming on and with lots of new plans, following these wines – which, of course, includes in your own cellar – is going to continue to be exciting. Prices have crept upward, but given the quality – not to mention the labors needed to achieve it – one can hardly complain. Yields were very low in 2008, a condition, Chermette opines, for achieving genuine and complete ripeness. (Note that since Chermette’s label now features his name writ large and “Vissoux” in tiny letters, I have listed his wines accordingly.)Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800