The 2004 Barbaresco S. Stefanetto (from vines in Treiso) is a firm, yet generous wine endowed with notable purity and depth in its dark, sensual fruit. Truffles, worn-in leather, spices and menthol round out this harmonious, beautifully balanced Barbaresco. Though undeniably attractive today, the wine will benefit from another year or two in bottle to help soften the tannins, but it is already delicious. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2022. Piero Busso, a small grower in Neive, makes wines in an approachable, fruit-driven style. Importers: J.A.O. Wine Imports, Mc Lean, VA; tel. (703) 628-9615