You can put this next to Syrahs costing four times as much and smell them both, and this Robert Mondavi wine will win out. It’s all about white pepper, blackberries and oak. Tastes fine and yummy, with rich berry flavors and soft, creamy tannins. Could use a bit more depth, but at this price, you can’t have everything. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 88