The 2008 Rosso Piceno Superiore Montetinello is a dark, brooding wine that impresses for the integrity of its fruit and depth. Wild cherries, earthiness, herbs, licorice and leather are some of the notes that flow from this relatively large-scaled, burly Rosso Piceno. The overall balance here is first-rate, and the Montetinello is the finest of the estate’s 2008s. Ideally it is enjoyed with hearty foods. The Montetinello is 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese, aged in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Saladini Pilastri makes a wide range of wines, but readers are best served focusing on the reds. Incredibly, all of those wines can be had for under $25 a bottle. Importers: The Charmer Sunbelt Group, NY, NY; tel. (212) 699-7021