The flower label 2007 Morgon reveals a charming side too seldom in evidence this vintage. Scents of fraises de bois and tart cherry mingle with hints of fennel and cocoa powder. In the mouth, this is refreshing and quite delicate, with lightly-cooked strawberry, green tea, and subtle cherry stone bitterness. Saline, savory, and carnal undertones in the finish remind one of the more serious side to Morgon. Enjoy this amazing value over the next 2-3 years; its relative delicacy belies its ability to keep. Consistent in style and amazingly low in price (but then, this is – sadly –a region in crisis), the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf represent perennial best values in the American marketplace. That includes wines from a range of domaines with which Duboeuf father and son have long-standing relationships, and which generally cost very little more than do the “Selections Georges Duboeuf” that bear his signature flower labels.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

A firmly tannic wine in Duboeuf’s flower label which, as often with Morgon, needs time. The red plum fruits are powerful, dense, with a dry tannin core to go with the sweet juiciness of the fruit. Resist the temptation to drink this delicious wine now. It should be aged, certainly for a year.——R.V.(11/1/2009)—— 89