Here’s a seriously good Chardonnay that fruit lovers will covet, but it’s also enormously oaky. I like all that new French wood because the caramelly, smoky vanilla and buttered toast, which is boosted by total malolactic fermentation, works so well with the mangoes, papayas and pineapples. But I know people who would call this Chard toothpicky. ——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 92