Grassy on the nose, with a citrus base. Has a tiny bit of sweetness on the front palate, like a dot of confectioner’s sugar, which is only a minor distraction. Stone fruit and a dusty-talc feel segues to a fresh, pretty finish that tastes like clean rainwater and peach puree. Sound too fairytale and frou-frou to be true? Taste it. ——D.T.(11/15/2004)—— 88