Founded in 1794, Deinhard is an old merchant house—what the French would call a negociant—that markets a wide array of wines. The company’s 1808 price list offered 89 different Rhine and Mosel wines, but that’s been at least somewhat shortened in recent years. No, it’s not that intense, nor does it show a lot of minerality, but this wine ably shows off Mosel Riesling’s array of fruity, off-dry flavors, ranging from peach and pear to apple, pineapple and lime. Crisp and clean on the finish. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 86