The 2008 Chardonnay Solomon Hills, from Dijon clones, is fatter and richer in the mouth than some of the other Chardonnays here. It shows gorgeous textural richness and plenty of ripe, varietal fruit while avoiding tropical notes. This is quite full and exuberant yet nicely balanced at the same time. This is a blend of Clone 76 and 95. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. I admit I have mixed feelings about the wines I tasted at Ojai with proprietor Adam Tolmach and winemaker Fabien Castel. On the positive side, the wines are classy, elegant and also very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. At the same time, it is obvious yields aren’t particularly low, which is somewhat mystifying considering Tolmach works with first-rate sites and is clearly getting pristine fruit. Don’t get me wrong, these are excellent wines?but they could be truly great, and maybe beyond great. The cellars are kept cold year-round, while the approach to winemaking remains quite minimalist. All of the whites are fermented in barrel, with full malolactic fermentation and very low levels of new oak. The Pinots are aged on their lees and are racked only before bottling. The Pinots see 25-35% new oak, while the Syrahs see even less. In recent years Tolmach has begun experimenting with whole clusters for both his Pinots and Syrahs. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

Ojai is making Chardonnays in a drier, leaner and lower alcohol style than many others, but the wines reward for their extreme elegance and Chablisian minerality. This one, from a cool vineyard within sight of the Pacific, is streamlined, with flavors of citrus rind, tapioca and oak, and is very high in mouthwatering acidity. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 91