A couple of years ago the wine seemed heavy and stewy, but as it ages it seems to be showing the ripeness and richness from before, as well as intriguing notes of tobacco, chocolate and baked plum. More than the flavors, the wine impressed this time around courtesy of smooth tannins, flushness and mouthfeel. In a word, it has found a groove. ——M.S.(6/1/2007)—— 91