This best-of-barrels reserve shows a richness and complexity that make for compelling drinking. A mixture of several clones and selections of Pinot Noir, the wine has firm tannins, but the burst of cherries, red currants, root beer and sweet smoky oak gives it a supple, mouth-filling quality. Delicious now with decanting, and should hold and improve through 2012.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 92