The outstanding 2004 Rasteau La Ponce (80% Grenache and 20% Syrah) has a scorched earth, chocolate covered cherry sort of nose, medium to full body, big, rustic, heady flavors, and loads of character. It is a personality-filled wine. All in all, these are very impressive wines from an up-and-coming estate in Rasteau. This is an up-and-coming, relatively large estate at 160 acres spread throughout the appellations of the Cotes du Rhone, Cairanne, Rasteau, and Roaix. The renowned southern Rhone oenologist Philippe Cambie oversees the winemaking, which seems to be going from strength to strength. There is a considerable percentage of old vines at the estate, and the quality of these wines, which are still very reasonably priced, range from very good to outstanding. Importer: Jeff Welburn Selections, New York, NY; tel: (212) 247-2252; www.jeffwelburn.com

Dusty cassis and mulberry scents waft from the glass; this blend of Grenache and Syrah is nicely perfumed. In the mouth, it’s a bit tart and unyielding, but the tannins are supple on the finish. This should have a relatively long, positive future ahead of it. Drink 2008–2015.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 88