Boasting scents of cracked pepper, black olives, road tar and blackberries, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage is a notable effort and a solid value. It's medium-bodied, yet on the sturdy side, with muscular tannins tamed by the firm's traditional, lengthy élevage. Finishing long, with hints of charred meat and licorice, this should drink well for 6-7 years, perhaps longer.