Though the Wine Advocate has been bellowing it for years, it is worth repeating: Columbia Crest is the source of some of the finest values in the world. I am awestruck that winemaker Ray Einberger and his team can produce such quality in industrial-size quantities. Notes of leather provide complex nuances to the black raspberry aromas of the 2003 Syrah Reserve (4,000 cases). A bright red with appealing dark fruit and spice flavors, it is medium-bodied and slightly tannic. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

A bit of a disappointment after the exceptional 2002, this young, hard wine brings scents of citrus, white pepper and green coffee beans into play, with rather aggressive notes of American oak. The pickle-barrel character is a bit of a detraction, and the wine is tart, chewy and still awkward with unresolved tannins. Needs time. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 87