The 2009 Chardonnay Reserve is quite a bit fresher and more vibrant than the Santa Barbara County bottling. Bright notes of citrus, lime, crushed rocks and green pears run through this vibrant, beautifully delineated Chardonnay. The 50% new oak barrels are barely noticed, if at all, in this superb white. The pointed, chiseled finish is truly exceptional. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. I was very impressed with the Chardonnays and Pinots I tasted from Rusack. The Syrahs appear to be works in progress, but given the level of the best wines here, I see no reason why they can’t be of similar quality. Hopefully that will happen sooner rather than later.Tel. (805) 688-1278; info@rusackvineyards.com

Made the same way as the winery’s previous reserves, with ripe, lush fruit that was barrel fermented in half-new oak and aged sur lies. It’s a very rich wine, elaborate in pineapple jam, lemon tart, creme brulee and buttered toast flavors. Opulently powerful, but could use greater elegance and finesse. ——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 91