A to Z has kept a lid on its pricing, and offers one of the best values in Oregon Pinot Noir. Though very young, this wine is soft and forward, and benefits from its early release. It could almost pass for a cru Beaujolais, from the slightly candied cherry fruit right down to the hints of banana that suggest a certain amount of whole cluster fermentation. In any event, it’s fruity, lightly detailed with spice, and quite charming, though not as substantial as its 2006 predecessor. ——P.G.(12/15/2008)—— 87