The dark ruby-colored 2007 Pinot Noir Yamhill Cuvee offers up a superb bouquet of smoke, cinnamon, rose petal, cherry, and cranberry. Spicy, expressive, and medium-bodied on the palate, it displays a racy personality marked by savory flavor, vibrant acidity, good depth, and enough structure to evolve for 1-2 years. Drink this tasty effort through 2017. Domaine Serene’s first vintage was 1990, so the upcoming harvest will be their 20th. Consistent high quality has been a benchmark of the winery and the 2007s will do nothing to change that. Ken and Grace Evenstad were kind enough to show me their first two vintages of Domaine Serene Pinot Noir, 1990 and 1991. Both wines were made by Ken Wright. Both have reached their peak, the 1991 a bit more advanced than the 1990, but they are both beautiful for current drinking. They are just two more examples of how well-made Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from strong vintages can drink well for 20+ years. Tel. (503) 864-4600; www.domaineserene.com

The alcohol comes in just under 14%, but the wine tastes a little harsh and the tannins hint at green tea flavors. The fruit is subdued, dark, a little smoky, peppery and very herbal. This definitely needs to be decanted. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 87