The 2007 LOIOS BRANCO is a blend of Rabo de Ovelha and Roupeiro, unoaked. It is a nice value from this entry level brand. Steely on opening, it shows a rounder, fruitier demeanor with air and warmth, while retaining its crispness. Flavorful on the finish, it is also quite aromatic, a charming value wine. Despite its modest mid-palate, it feels rather fat on the finish. If you catch it young, you may think it outperforms its score, but note that this is one of those wines that will always taste best young and fresh, and as it ages, even in six month intervals, it will become less and less interesting. Drink now-2009. Iconic Southern winemaker Joao Portugal Ramos has many brands, Falua/Vimioso for his Ribatejo property, the low cost Loios brand, the single vineyard Vicosa, Vila Santa and the flagship Marques de Borba in Alentejo. For convenience, they are all grouped here although note that the Falua wines do not necessarily have Ramos’ name on the label.Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado); for Conde de Vimioso (Falua) brand: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843 (Washington, Portland and California) and Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044 (New England, New Jersey and New York).

A pleasant, simple, freshly citrus wine that makes great aperitif drinking. There are melon and apricot flavors, but the acidity holds everything tautly together.——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 85