Fresh lemon, grapefruit, diverse red berries and buddleia hauntingly scent the Donnhoff 2008 Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese and inform a palate of utmost refinement and delicacy, transparent to salt, stone, gingery spice, and floral diversity. Juicy, tart, faintly bitter suggestions of fresh pineapple add invigoration to a long, refreshing finish. This represents an unusually vivacious, incipiently complex Kirschheck with all of the seductive allure one has come to expect from this bottling. It should be fascinating to follow for 15-20 years, although it's irresistible young. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300