The 2005 Amfora Ribolla Gialla shows amazing intensity from start to long finish. Famously matured in amphorae made from clay sourced in Georgia, it shows a copper-orange color and brilliant points of luminosity from within. The opulence of the bouquet is broken down into defined aromatic chapters that transition from resin to pine to caramel to graham cracker to candied fruit and crushed mineral. As you would expect from a wine of this level of careful oxidation, those caramelized characteristics outweigh any semblance of fresh fruit. The mouth-feel is firmly etched but polished. Built like a tank, expect this wine to remain intact for years. Drink: 2015-2025. More than a winery, Gravner is a pilgrimage destination that has reached epic cult status among wine intelligentsia. The reason has more to do with clay than grapes. Josko Gravner famously abandoned the use of wood some 40 years ago. In the late 1980s, following a trip the Caucasus he learned about the ancient use of clay vessels for making and storing wine. In 1997, he made his first amphorae-aged Ribolla Gialla. Today, there are more than a dozen high profile wineries in Italy who have followed his example and have embraced this extreme branch of the “natural wine” movement. Gravner’s wines are indeed controversial and polarizing. Those who profess to love them make an equally bold statement as those who don’t. The important thing is to take a stand. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com