The only two 1993s I tasted did not perform well. They displayed hollow personalities, with an excess of hard, tough tannin, washed-out fruit, and a rustic, austere style. I cannot see them ever developing much charm or finesse. They are likely to dry out over the next decade. I hope none of my readers will throw away $45 a bottle on this.
This important Pommard estate has provided me with some thrilling wines, particularly from the 1962, 1964, 1966, 1971, and 1978 vintages. Since then I have often wondered if I have not been over-rating Courcel's wines. They are always solidly colored with plenty of body, but vintages since 1985 have tasted lighter, without the concentration that I expect. I was shocked to read in Englishman Remington Norman's Great Domaines of Burgundy that the wines are subjected to a "very light, plaque filtration, above all for the USA." It is hard to believe that serious Burgundy importers would request highly processed and manipulated Pinot Noir cuvees, but that may explain the so-so performance of these wines over recent vintages. This property produced disappointing 1991s, adequate 1992s, good rather than spectacular 1990s, pleasant 1989s, and hard, astringent, charmless 1988s.
Importer: Chateau and Estate Wine Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725
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