The 2009 Serrapetrona Falcotto (Vernaccia Nera) is full of varietal character. A delicious unoaked red, the Falcotto bursts from the glass with cracked black pepper, dark cherries, licorice and spices. Readers who aren't familiar with this indigenous grape may find the Falcotto a bit on the exotic side. The 2008 isn't an immediate or easy wine, but it sure is tasty. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Fontezoppa is an excellent source for wines that capture the essence of the many varieties - both red and white - that are indigenous in the Marche. Today, the entry-level and mid-tier wines offer the greatest consistency, but I think it is just a matter of time before the higher-end wines are more dialed in. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922