A to Z playfully colors its screwcap to match the plum cherry tone of the wine, a Sangiovese from the Del Rio vineyard in southern Oregon. Stainless-steel fermented and not put through malolactic fermentation, the wine is loaded with watermelon, strawberries, raspberries and cherry candy. A fairly sweet finish suggests cotton candy. Serve this well-chilled, best drunk alone as an aperitif.——P.G.(4/1/2008)—— 86